HollowGram SiSL2 with OPI SpiderRing: The evolution of the revolution. 13 years ago, the original Cannondale HollowGram crank started the BB30 revolution and set a new standard for ultra-light, super-stiff cranks. The most current evolution of the HollowGram, the SiSL2 continues this tradition of radical innovation. These hollow cranks are created by bonding together two machined, heat-treated clamshell halves with a super-strong anaerobic bonding agent. Extensive FEA modeling and physical testing have allowed us to refine the internal and external shapes for the ultimate in stiffness-to-weight. The results is a crank light and stiff enough for our top road race machines but still so tough, we use it on our mountain bikes as well. As beautiful as the cranks are, the most eye-catching feature of the cranks is the OPI SpiderRing.

Categories Cranks SI Hollowgram Crank Crank Crank. Display per page. Crankset Cannondale SI SLSL2 road. Hollowgram SISL 2 road set. Lockring SI SL.

Inspired by auto racing wheels, the 10-arm spider and both chainrings are 3D forged and machined from a single block of aluminum. Richard Yates Tao Lin Epub Format more. Iphone Configuration Utility Download. This one-piece design saves weight and reduces chainring deflection for crisper, more precise shifts. The SpiderRing is available in both 53/39t and 50/34t options and is retrofittable to all HollowGram cranks. HollowGram Si: Our patented OPI 3D forging process enables us to build hollow, seamless crankarms that are not only extremely light but also incredibly strong and stiff. In fact, they are the stiffest, strongest crankarms we've ever made.

As light as the first-generation HollowGram cranks and completely compatible with every HollowGram spider and chainring set-up, the Si brings HollowGram performance to more price points than ever.

My wife came through for Christmas this year and I got the Hollowgram cranks I do have a question for the install. My bike is a 2010 Cannondale Supersix 3 which came with FSA SLK Lights. I removed no problem and here is where my questions begin. On the original Cranks they had the wavey washer on the non-drive side.

(bearing cover/spacer/wavey washer) On the drive side they had only bearing cover/washer. Small chainring sat out about 8mm from frame. Now according to the Cannondale manual I will be putting the wavy washer on the drive side.

Sounds good to me the only problem I have is that on the drive side I installed the bearing cover/one spacer/wavey washer and I torqued to the spec of 25 to 30 lbs. In the manual PDF it states that the wavey washer should be compressed to me it looks flat. (??) Now I don't think I should istall more washers due to that would push the wavy washer out further and would compress more. Should I remove the washer?? I am little confused any input would be appreciated I searched on this topic with no luck. Thanks for any help. Bikerjulio wrote:Firstly there is a difference in BB30 speak between a spacer and a shim.

Spacers are used in MTB applications only. On a road bike 'up to' 5 shims may be used, as necessary so as to just start compressing the wave washer. So, it would seem to me to be safest to start with zero shims, so as not to invite damaging the bearings, torque it down and see how it looks.

You should always check for free spin when torquing down a crankarm on any system, and stop immediately if you feel binding. Bridgeport Ez Trak Manual Pdf - Download Free Apps on this page. Do you reckon one full crank rotation without the chain is fine? I havent even torqued it to torque spec. I used 3 shims on my caad9, ceramic bearing. Bikerjulio wrote:Firstly there is a difference in BB30 speak between a spacer and a shim.